Saké Reviews

Happy Doburoku Kimoto - the Fruit of Brewers’ Collaboration across Realms

The first Kimoto Doburoku of Happy Tarō, brewed with the help of the renowned tōji Hioki Daisaku, has a well-balanced flavor and dignity as a rice product.

Kimoto Doburoku

I was lucky to taste the Kimoto doburoku of Happy Tarō Brewery, which uses the traditional brewing method of lactic acid fermentation. It was realized with the support and encouragement of the renowned tōji Hioki Daisaku. Hioki is from the traditional sake industry, whereas Ikejima, the owner and brewer of Happy Tarō, is a rising microbrewer of craft sake. This doburoku symbolizes the fusion of the two worlds. Not long ago, they seemed to keep their distance from each other.

Doburoku in an unpressed sake. Unlike “refined” sake, seishu (清酒), or ordinary transparent sake, doburoku has no process of separating the liquid and solid parts. When you store doburoku still, you might notice the transparent top and cloudy bottom layers. The beverage itself contains both liquid and solid.

We have kept aside a small portion of the transparent part in advance so that drinking it would not influence the balance when stirred, as the brewer intends. As I took a sip, a wave of emotion washed over me. It was fantastic. The full-bodied but clean taste consisted of an elegant acidity, behind which I felt subtle lactic notes.

When stirred (to the preferred state), it had an intense structure with fizzy gas and acidity. Although the texture was incredibly soft, the rice particles remained present. The brewer might have accomplished the ultimate endpoint of the texture of doburoku as a rice beverage. It also had lingering afternotes of cottage cheese and lemon peel. Above are the notes when chilled at around ten degrees Celsius.

Then, we warmed the dobu (the abbreviated form for doburoku). It took longer than refined sake as the temperature slowly spread in rice particles. Yet, it is always enjoyable to heat sake unhurriedly. Slow sake warming is as precious as slow food. At 42 degrees, the dobu feels so smooth, like an air flow; at around 60 degrees, I experienced a similar feeling as I accompanied food with rice. Even my tipsy nose perceived the ricey afternotes like just cooked rice. It paired exceptionally nicely with firefly squid, the most seasonal seafood here, which one of my friends brought to the tasting.

Rice is open to any food. For example, we all know that any food fits on top of sushi. The warmed doburoku is also open to any food.

Tasted in Kyoto in March 2024.